| The Jewels of Jean Schlumberger
by Marie-Noel De Gary, Chantal Bizot, and Evelyne Possemé, translated by
Alexandra Bonfarte-Warren and David Weill.
Published by Harry N. Abrams, New York, NY, 2001. Hardcover, color, 9-3/4"x
12", 157 pages, $39.95. ISBN: 0810941813.
Reviewed by June Culp Zeitner
 I
first saw a piece of Tiffany & Co. jewelry by Schlumberger about 30 years
ago. Though I was greatly impressed, I couldn't learn much about him or his impact
on the jewelry world until this book appeared. This beautiful book was written
by French art curators. It shows dozens of exquisite jewels and designs by Tiffany's
creative and influential artists. It was created for collectors of gems, jewelry,
and art.
In addition to fantastic designs, Schlumberger's jewelry featured the best
of gemstones in a rainbow of colors. Although his designs ranged from geometric
and classical to realistic and whimsical, there is a superb sense of balance,
proportion, and particularly grace to all of them.
Many of his most dramatic pieces are based on subjects of nature such as sea
life, flowers, fruit, birds, and butterflies. Some designs were made for particular
stones (the Tiffany Diamond).
He designed many objects including jewelry, compacts, cigarette cases, picture
frames, candlesticks, baskets, boxes, and more. A Schlumberger clock of gold and
lapis lazuli is in the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts. His jewelry included rings,
necklaces, earrings, bracelets, and hat ornaments, but obviously his favorite
were clips. These inventive clips gave him the ultimate freedom of subject, size,
technique, and imagery.
His seashell bird and flower designs are outstanding. Besides the photos, there
are design sketches in pencil, ink, and watercolor.
This famous French jeweler was widely traveled and knew most members of high
society in France and America during the two decades he spent at Tiffany &
Co. in New York. The back of the book has a 199-item Schlumberger catalogue.
Fashionable women from Elsa Schiaparelli and Greta Garbo to Elizabeth Taylor
and Jacqueline Onassis have worn his jewelry and many famous collections display
pieces of his work. This book is a real treat to all who enjoy jewelry, gems,
and art, as well as the products of one of the world's great jewelry companies.
June Culp Zeitner, who has been writing for the Lapidary Journal since 1956
and joined the editorial staff in 1967, is the author of nine gem and mineral
books, and helped start the National Rockhound and Lapidary Hall of Fame.
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