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STEP 1.
Determine the size you want your glass rectangles to be. Mine are 3/4" (h) x 1/2" (w). To prepare the glass for cutting, use the ruler and paint pen to mark the length of your rectangles. Measure the length of one rectangle from the edge of the glass in towards the center. Carry this measurement down the entire length of the sheet. Place the blade of your oil-filled glass cutter on your painted line and apply even, steady pressure, pulling the cutter towards you. Make this cut in one pass. Be careful not to pull the cutter over the edge of the glass, as it could chip the blade. The cutting process should sound like a zipper opening.
To break this cut piece from the sheet of glass, use the glass-cutting pliers. Line up the center of the pliers' mouth to the cut line on the glass. Apply light pressure and the glass will break in a straight line.
Measure the width of the rectangles along the length of the glass. Using the same cutting procedure, cut out the individual rectangles. Clean the glass with the cleaning paste. The edges are very sharp, so be careful.
STEP 2.
There are many different stencils available for etching. I used a snowflake for a winter holiday theme. Apply the etched image by following the manufacturer's instructions. I recommend doing the etching after cutting the glass but before foiling (STEP 3). The remaining procedures will not effect the etched images. Clean the glass again.
 STEP 3.
Measure the foil around the cut pieces of glass, allowing for overlap. Cut the foil. Peel the backing from the foil. Center the glass in the middle of the width of the foil, and wrap the foil around the entire rectangle. Since peeling the backing from the entire length of foil at once can make it difficult to work with, I recommend peeling as you wrap it around the glass. Miter the corners and press the foil smooth. Burnish the foil for a smooth, finished look.
STEP 4.
Holding one rectangle with the needle-nose pliers, use the paintbrush to apply flux to the foil. With the soldering iron, apply the lead-free solder to all foiled areas. I apply solder in 2 stages for a heavy, layered look. The first stage is to ensure coverage of the foil and to establish a good base; the second, done on a lower heat setting so as not to melt the first application, is to build the solder on top of the base layer. Begin this stage with the piece that is the coolest. Repeat this 2-stage process until all rectangles have been soldered.
 STEP 5.
To apply the double loop (or jump rings), center the finding on one side of the rectangle, then flux both the finding and the soldered edge. Heat the existing solder on the rectangle, or apply additional solder. The finding will sink into place. Hold the finding in position until the solder has cooled. Apply 2 findings per rectangle, one on each side. Once each rectangle is complete, clean thoroughly with the paste. It is important to remove the flux to prevent oxidation.
 STEP 6.
Link the rectangles together with the larger jump rings. To retain the roundness of the jump ring, open each jump ring using a twisting motion, pulling one side toward you and the other away. Link the top loop of one rectangle to the top loop of the next rectangle. Close the jump ring using the twisting motion in reverse. Link the bottom loops together the same way. Repeat this process until all the rectangles are linked together.
STEP 7.
For the end loops, attach a jump ring to the top and bottom loop, then attach a smaller jump ring. Link the smaller ring to the clasp.
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• Hard, flat work surface for cutting the glass
• Fire-retardant work surface for soldering (I use a ceiling
tile available at most hardware stores)
• Glass cutting oil
• Oil-filled glass cutter (you can use a regular glass cutter
if you dip it in the oil before cutting)
• Glass cutting pliers
• Ruler
• Opaque paint pen
• Etching cream
• Etching stencil
• Paint brush
• Masking tape
• Stained glass
• Black-coated copper foil; I used 7/32" (available at stained
glass supply stores)
• Burnishing tool
• Liquid flux
• Lead free solder
• Soldering iron
• Needle-nose pliers
• Cleaning paste (dish detergent, water, baking soda)
• Double loop, resembles a figure 8 (or you can use 2 jump
rings instead of the loop)
• Jump rings (I used 5mm and 3mm)
• Clasp of your choice
• Small vise will help give you that extra hand
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For information on supplies,
please see the Annual Buyers'
Directory.
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Tamara L. Honaman works
with several art media. Her love for stained glass art has evolved from
her work with polymer clay and kaleidoscopes.
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Stained glass is a wonderful medium to work with. If you let your imagination go, you can design practical yet distinctive items, from jewelry to candleholders. I am self-taught, but have received a lot of useful advice from local stained glass shop owners. They are a great resource for both the beginner and experienced artist. Most stained glass shops offer classes or shop time, giving you the use of their tools, space, and expertise.
